Aghia Marina, Crete
Wasn’t sure what to expect from this area to be honest. The north-east coast has become a kind of horror-show of ribbon developed low-budget tourism or high-quality luxury accommodation in the middle of nowhere. We booked for a crazy price a year earlier. Suddenly we were potentially faced with a couple of weeks of “Blackpool-on-speed!”
What we got, as you can see from the photos below, was a delightful place situated smack on the beach opposite an island. There is the main north road behind the apartments with its curious mix of supermarkets, bars and restaurants but you wouldn’t know it was there when you’re sipping an afternoon Gin & Tonic!
The beach is long and enormous, though narrow in parts. The coastline runs from just outside Chania right up to the Kissamos peninsula. There is accommodation and tavernas to suit any type of cutomer. The location is excellent for exploring the whole of the west coast and Chania itself.
Above is the perfectly-postioned bar of the outstanding (εξαισιο!) Olga Beach Studios, run by the hard-working and irresistible Nikos & Maria. They seem to possess limitless energy and their philoxenia is boundless. Here are some more views of the beach. If you look very closely at these images in this blog, you may see Yorko & Auli from Finland. They have been coming here for their holidays for twenty-nine years!
You won’t have to venture far for evening food or entertainment. Right opposite is the wonderful Old Mill Taverna which serves fantastic traditional Greek food (Milonas). The staff are very friendly and helpful. They put up with a fair bit of nonsense (anoesia) from me! Experiment with the menu and mix it up.
Scarpetta! Mopping your plate with bread (an Italian word but understood everywhere by gourmet practitioners, especially from Wales). The Mill has a lovely setting and ambience too. Hard to believe it’s on the main road.
The sunsets here are amazing, as are the sunrises (you need to get up very early to see them).
There’s a pleasant not-so-secret secret in Agia Marina - it has an old village area full of tavernas. They get very busy no matter what time of year, so it’s better to reserve a table beforehand. It’s about 10 minutes away from the beach. One taverna is so popular with locals and return visitors that it has an overspill garden over the road (Horiatiko). However, there are plenty to choose from. We rarely book and they always find somewhere for you to sit and take your euros. The Specials are always outstanding value for money!
The photos below give you some idea of the variety and atmosphere.
Just along the main road are some other quality traditional tavernas with tables overlooking the sea. It’s unbelievable that you have everything you could wish for within fifty to one hundred yards. The food is stunning and the service is always friendly and fun. Also, everything comes with small iced bottles of raki, the local rocket fuel. Even in the cocktail bars they ask you if you want a raki or some ‘medicine’ when you settle the bill. It’s tough-going some nights. Often there’s about eight or nine shots of the stuff sitting in front of three people. Crazy. Hospitality, Cretan-style!
Below are some images of the strange things you may encounter in the restaurant toilets!
Norwegian trolls decorating the toilets at the Olivi Taverna in the old village. Below, some examples of the alcoholic absurdity you will encounter. Open the hatch.
No need to opt for dessert when lashings of fruit appear as a parting gift, usually huge amounts of watermelon (karpouzi) and grapes. Naturally, I touch neither, which can be a tad awkward at times. More raki, maybe? Oh! no!
Some artist that toddler! The beach winds right around the headland towards Chania and the sand becomes softer and the beach more expansive as you wander. There are lifeguard towers everywhere, but they close on September 30th because after that date nobody gets into difficulties in the sea, which has lethal currents! Greek bureaucracy does not change. By the way, the beaches are still very busy, with many young children still about.
Sunrise in Agia Marina. Majestic. You do have to get up early to see this! I would not hesitate to recommend this location. Just do your homework and find the place to suit your needs.