Operation Koukounaries

There’s no doubt about it. The sky tells its own story. It’s going to rain. In the summer. In Greece. Operation Koukounaries is in jeopardy. Even Anestes thinks it’s going to throw it down. If we do decide to go ahead with the excursion and if it does rain when we’re down there, he will refund our taxi fare. Sound. We have a chat and decide to risk it. It’s only about twenty minutes away and we can always return.

We arrived at Koukounaries and somehow a miracle has happened. What a transformation! Having booked a slot under the pine trees and about halfway up the bay, as recommended by Anestes, we opted for an early lunch in the shade. The service and quality of the food is much better than you’d expect, considering the huge numbers of punters on the beach and demand.

Strategically located, you can see the snack bar from our beds. The beach lives up to its superstar billing. It has fantastic bathing and facilities of all kinds. It must have been exhilarating before tourism took over. Boat trips kept pouring in as hordes of people descended on Skiathos’ Caribbean hotspot. The sunbeds were organised from alpha [A] in the front to eta [H] at the back. We were in row H. That’s seven rows back. The whole bay is structured like this. That’s a fair number of bodies. As beautiful as the setting is, it’s not my cup of tea / can of fanta / bottle of ouzo. The sea is awesome and the best place to be. I decided to escape and explore the area. I wondered if the entire area was all like this?

Yep. It was time to take a break from the noise of the beach and investigate what else the biotope had to offer. If you nip off the boardwalk behind one of the beach huts you soon find some tracks leading into the pine forest. In minutes you can find yourself in a new world. It’s a great walk. You stroll under enormous pines and tall trees which form a decent shaded canopy. Every so often you come across a clearing, a dusty sandy space. Everything is parched and bone dry. No wonder there are frequent signs warning of the dangers of dropping cigarettes or smoking. Fire is a constant threat here.

Suddenly, there’s another clearing and a pond. It’s a big one. It’s regarded locally as a lake, but, then, so is the Lake District. This is a unique environment, especially in Greece, and so close to a popular bay. There’s virtual silence. You wouldn’t know there was a beach a few hundred yards away with water sports, bus stops and jetties with cruisers. Quite a contrast. Not far from the ‘lake’ are other spectacular beaches, some nudist, some exclusive to luxury hotels and others with electro music thumping out for the party animals. It certainly makes the trip worthwhile. This is a photographer’s dream. You can create digital paintings instantly. The biotope is fascinating. The old damaged trees and abandoned nests reminded me of Australia for some reason. It really is one spectacular environment.

The harbour is another tranquil spot, considering the huge numbers of people just over the other side of the bridge. You may even see someone waiting with cases to be collected by motor launch. It’s a great way to get around. Although there were several ducks swimming about on the causeway we didn’t see the Black Swans who have adopted the Bay of Koukounaries as their home. They turned up a couple of weeks later (after we’d left) at Kolios of all places. If you get a chance, go there!